2007 Ford Five hundred

It's starting not going into highway gears (5&6) just revs real high and when it does finally, it kicks really hard. Sounds and feels like it's going to drop out from under the car.

AFTER DRIVING HALF-HOUR IN HIGH-WAY SOUTHWARD ON I-45 IN THE MORNING. THE CAR CANNOT BE ACCELERATE AT AROUND 40MPH WHEN I RAMP UP TO 288, AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT TURNED RED. SECONDS LATER, IT RECOVERED BACK. 2 MINUTES LATER, IT HAPPENED AGAIN . AND AGAIN . SO I PARKED IT . ~8-HOURS LATER, I STARTED IT AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT RED AGAIN. SECONDS LATER, THE ENGINE STOPPED WHEN I BACK THE CAR. I STEPPED ON GAS-PEDAL WHEN I TRIED 3RD TIME, AND THE CAR MOVED AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT KEPT RED. 10-MINUTS LATER, WHEN I DRIVE ON 288-SOUTH AT ~60MPH, BOTH OF THE REPAIR LIGHT AND ENGINE LIGHT TURNED YELLOW AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT OFF, SECONDS LATER, THE REPAIR LIGHT OFF. THE ENGINE LIGHT KEPT ON. SO I GET DOWN THE HIGHWAY, CANNOT ACCELERATE CAR WITH GAS-PEDAL ON AND CANNOT TURN STERRING WHEEL, THE CAR SLOW DOWN AND STOPPED BY ITSELF. 5-MINUTES LATER, I STARTED IT AGAIN WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON WITH YELLOW, THE CAR MOVED AND 10 MINUTES LATER, I PARKED IT HOME.

I HAD THIS CAR REPAIRED TWICE AT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC SHOP THAT COST ME THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS. EVERY TIME, THE CAR COMES TO STOP OR DIES ON ME. I REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER ONE TIME THAT IS UNDERNEATH THE CAR. NOW THE CAR IS SITTING IN MY GARAGE BECAUSE OF THE FUEL PUMP NOT FUNCTIONING AND DOES NOT MAKE THAT SOUND ANYMORE WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON.

IT BEGAN WITH THE 12 VOLT NOT WORKING. PUT IN NEW FUSE IT BLEW. THEN INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEEDOMETER GOES BLACK, IF YOU GOT THE DASH IT COMES BACK ON THE BATTERY GOT COMPLETELY DRAINED BOUGHT A NEW ONE. STILL HAVE A SHORT SOMEWHERE . NOTICED A MILLION OTHER COMPLAINTS THE SAME SHOULD THIS NOT BE INVESTIGATED? A SODERING DEFECT OR ELECTRICAL SHORT DRAINING BATTERY, IT'S OBVIOUSLY A VEHICLE DEFECT. ISN'T FORD A BIG ENOUGH COMPANY TO TAKE CARE OF THIS INSTEAD OF IGNORING IT? THIS IS ON A 2007 FORD 500, LOW MILES. THIS HAPPENS SITTING STILL OR DRIVING.

CAR IS LEAKING FUEL FROM THE GAS TANK AREA, LOOKS LIKE ITS LEAKING FROM THE FILLER NECK. AT TIMES IT LEAKS A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT. I'M ALSO HAVING SURGING ISSUES. MAINLY AT LOW SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE HAS ALSO SHUT DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC. THESE PROBLEMS TRULY CONCERN ME AND I QUESTION THE SAFETY OF THE VEHICLE AND MY CHILDREN AND MYSELF WHILE IN THIS VEHICLE.

I DON'T KNOW IF THIS BELONGS IN ENGINE OR FUEL/PROPULSION SYSTEM. THERE WAS NO MENTION OF 'GAS PEDDLE' IN EITHER. THE DATE OF 07/17/2013 IS APPROXIMATE. IT MAY HAVE BEEN BETWEEN 2013 - 2015. I AM NOT SURE OF THE EXACT DATES. IT WAS WHEN I WAS GOING TO A PAIN SPECIALIST IN BUFFALO AFTER MY REAR-END ACCIDENT IN MY PREVIOUS CAR IN JULY 2012. LOCATION - I-190 & NY-198 BUFFALO, NY 14207 42.930405, -78.899552 MERGE RAMP FROM THE NY-198 TO THE I-190 NORTH. 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED THE PROBLEM: THE GAS PEDDLE STUCK WHEN I HAD TO DO A FAST ACCELERATION / I FLOORED IT. I HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND PRESS THE GAS PEDDLE A COUPLE TIMES TO GET IT UNSTUCK. I HAD IT IN TO THE FORD DEALER WHERE I BOUGHT IT AND THEY FIXED OR CLEANED SOMETHING. THE FORD DEALER SAID THAT IT WOULD COST ABOUT $400.00 TO REPLACE THE COMPONENT IF THIS DIDN'T WORK. IT HAPPENED AGAIN WHEN I DID ANOTHER FAST ACCELERATION. I WAS ABLE AGAIN TO GET IT UNSTUCK. I HAVE NOT HAD THE OCCASION TO DO A FAST ACCELERATION SINCE. I DON'T RUN IT FAST IF I CAN HELP IT.

THE ANTI THEFT IS ON

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FLASHES THEN GOES BLACK WHILE DRIVING. INTERIOR EXTERIOR AND GAUGE LIGHTS GO BRIGHT AND DIM AND GO OUT ALTOGETHER WHILE DRIVING. CAR DIES WHILE MOVING. BATTERIES ONLY LAST 1 YEAR FROM BEING DRAINED. NO ALTERNATOR ISSUE PER 3 DIFFERENT MECHANICS.

DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT SOCKET BURNS OUT THE BULB. THE BULB HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES IN THE PAST THREE MONTHS. THE ENTIRE LIGHT SOCKET UNIT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THE SERVICE TECH INFORMED ME THAT WAS A PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL VEHICLE.

VEHICLE SURGES WHEN YOU LET OFF THE BRAKE. THIS STARTED SHORTLY AFTER WE PURCHASED THE CAR A COUPLE YEARS AGO. THEY EITHER SERVICED OR REPLACED THE THROTTLE BODY AND THAT WORKED FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS OR SO. NOW THE CAR SHAKES REALLY BAD ANYTIME WE HAVE TO STOP AND HAVE TO KEEP FOOT ON THE BRAKE REALLY HARD, SOMETIMES THE CAR DIES DURING THIS TOO AS WELL AS GOING FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE. AS SOON AS YOU LET OFF THE BRAKE THE CAR ACCELERATES, CAN MAKE IT UP TO ALMOST 40 MPH WITHOUT EVEN TOUCHING THE GAS. IT RUNS HORRIBLY IN THE HEAT TOO. ANY TEMP OVER 70 IT JERKS INTO 2 OR 3RD GEAR HARD WHEN STOPPING AND GOING.

THROTTLE HAD IT FIXED WITH RECALL, IT LUNGES YOU INTO TRAFFIC WHILE STOPPED. AGAIN IT HAS DONE THAT NOW FAILED, THIS IS A DANGEROUS CAR. IT IS GARAGE KEPT AND WELL MAINTAINED WENT DOWN TO GET GAS, MAIL AND WHILE STOPPED IT JERKED ME OUT OF THE STOPPED POSITION INTO THE MAILBOX THEN THE WRENCH, TRACTION AND ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND IT BUCKED TILL I GOT IT 10 FEET TO THE GARAGE NO, IT WILL NOT START!!! TO EVEN GET IT TO THE DEALERSHIP OR GARAGE, ITS A SAFETY FEATURE I WAS TOLD, THE WAY IT LUNGES IS DANGEROUS, I ALMOST WENT THROUGH HE GARAGE WALL WHICH IS CONCRETE, LAST TIME I HIT MY TEETH ON THE STEERING WHEEL AND KNOCKED ONE BACK OUT OF ALIGNMENT. WHICH THE FORD PERSON THOUGHT WAS FUNNY LAST TIME. FORD KNOWS THIS IS A DANGEROUS CAR, IT SHOULD BE REPLACED AND THESE SHOULD BE CRUSHED LIKE THE DEMON CAR THEY ARE. PEOPLE SPEND HARD EARNED MONEY ON THESE VEHICLES ALL FOR THIS TO HAPPEN?

PERIODICALLY BUT OCCURING MORE OFTEN. ONCE THE CAR IS PLACED IN DRIVE OR REVERSE BUT FOOT STILL ON THE BRAKE, ONCE THE BRAKE IS RELEASED THE CAR QUICKLY AND AGGRESSIVELY ACCELERATES ON IT'S OWN WITHOUT PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL AND WITH VERY LITTLE REACTION TIME YOU HAVE TO SLAM THE BRAKE PEDAL TO MAKE THE CAR STOP AND THEN THE CAR CUTS OFF. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 4 TIMES WITHIN THE LAST MONTH. VERY DANGEROUS! I HAVE RESEARCHED RECALL INFORMATION FOR THIS MODEL AS WELL AS MY DIRECT VIN NUMBER ASSOCIATED WITH MY VEHICLE BUT I HAVE YET TO FIND A RECALL. HOWEVER I HAVE READ MANY REVIEWS OF THE SAME ISSUES WITH OTHER FORD 500 OWNERS.

FUEL TANK FAILURE ,FUEL LEAK, VAPOR LEAK. THIS DUE TO A FAILURE OF THE SEALS ON THE FUEL TANK ALONG WITH THE DETERIORATION OF THE MOUNTING BRACKETS ON THE FUEL PUMP AND FUEL SENDING UNITS.

DASH PANEL LIGHT GO ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING, REVERSE LIGHTS COME ON AND CAR WANTS TO STALL. PUT NEW BATTERY IN AND HAD ALTERNATOR REPLACED STILL HAVING PROBLEM. CAN NOT DRIVE CAR BECAUSE OF SAFETY RISKS. BEEN DOING THIS FOR A MONTH AND STILL DOING IT EVEN AFTER REPAIRS DONE BY MECHANIC.

MY RPM GETS HIGH AND IT JOLTS WHEN I SHIFT FROM PARK TO REVERSE OR NEUTRAL. IT IS WORSE WITH THE AIR CONDITIONER ON. HAVE ONLY HAD THIS CAR FOR 4 WEEKS AND HAS LESS THAN 103,000 MILES ON IT.

SINCE I BOUGHT MY CAR IN 2007 I AM ON MY 4TH BATTERY. THE BATTERY WILL JUST DIE AND STOP HOLDING A CHARGE. THE DEALER CANNOT FIGURE OUT WHAT IS CAUSING THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. EVERY TIME THE CHARGE IT, THE CAR JUST DRAINS IT. THE BATTERIES ON OVERAGE ONLY LAST AROUND 2 YEARS. WHEN I GO UP AND DOWN STEEP HILLS MY CHECK BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON, BUT ONCE ON LEVEL THE LIGHT GOES OUT. MY CAR IS FINE AND THEN I GO TO START THE CAR IT WON'T START. NO WARNING WHAT SO EVER. THE CHECK BATTERY LIGHT NEVER EVEN COME ON. UNLESS OF COURSE WHILE I AM DRIVING UP OR DOWN A STEEP HILL. I LIVE IN SPOKANE WASHINGTON, BUT I HAD TO HAVE THE BATTERY REPLACED ONCE WHILE I WAS ON VACATION IN MONTANA. SOMETHING HAS TO BE DRAINING THE BATTERY BUT WE CANNOT FIGURE OUT WHAT IT IS.

WHEN PLACING THE CAR IN REVERSE OR DRIVES IT REVS. IN ORDER TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT I HAVE TO ENSURE THAT MY FEET ARE ON THE BRAKES AT ALL TIMES! THERE HAVE BEEN INSTANCES WHERE I'VE ALMOST HIT THE CAR IN FRONT ME!

THE CAR SURGES SEVERAL FEET WHEN YOU RELEASE THE BRAKE. IT WILL DO THIS MOVING FORWARD OR WHEN BACKING UP. THE CAR LITERALLY JUMPS A FEW FEET AND YOU MUST APPLY THE BRAKES IMMEDIATELY OR RISK HITTING ANYTHING CLOSE. IT MAKES IT VERY HARD TO PARK AND WORRIES US A LOT WHEN AT STOPLIGHTS WITH PEDESTRIANS CROSSING. THE CAR CAN BE A AT A COMPLETE STOP OR SIMPLY RELEASING THE BRAKE PEDAL IN A TURN , BACKING UP OR GOING STRAIGHT, IT IS VERY SCARY. THE SURGE USUALLY IS MORE OF A JUMP OF 2-4 FEET. THE INTERNET IS CHOCK FULL OF CUSTOMERS WITH THE SAME COMPLAINT.

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

PAINT IS BUBBLING ON HOOD WHICH RESULT IN TOTAL CORROSION OF ALUMINUM HOOD. HOOD MAY EVENTUALLY RUST THROUGH AND SEPARATE FROM FRAME.