2005 Chevrolet Suburban

The vehicle was idle for about 4 months. I took it to a carwash to clean the dust off. Upon returning (abt a 2 mile trip) the brakes failed and steam was coming out from under the hood. I opened the hood and brake fluid was sprayed all over the driver's side of the engine and wheel well. A brake line had rusted through and burst. Fortunately, I made it home carefully because I had noticed the brakes were soft.

This vehicle has less than 84,000 miles on it, and the chassis or frame is rotted. The rear anti sway bar already rotted off it, and the front bar is hanging down on the passenger side. I have photos of this, but don't know how to download them. The body has a little rot here, and there, but that is repairable. I spent a lot of money in purchasing this vehicle, and I expected it to last a very long time. The interior is almost like new. I am thinking about putting a tort claim about this to GM. Please help me all you can. I forgot to write that I also spent extra money for it to be undercoated, and it is supposed to be a lifetime warranty. I called that company, and they said it was only for 10 years. When I buy a new vehicle, I expect it to last.

Air bag sensors went out making air bag inoperable.

This defect pertains to gear indicator on the instrument panel. During the daylight hours the light indicating the gear the car is in (park, neutral, drive, etc.) is impossible to read. At night you can just barely read the gear indicators. The dimness of the lights behind this gear indicator gauge is a safety hazard because you cannot tell what gear you are in during the day. It is an expensive repair because the instrument panel needs to be removed to fix the problem.

Speedometer stops working intermittently. This is a safety hazard as the operator cannot tell the speed that the vehicle is operating. It seems to occur randomly.

The contact owns a 2005 Chevrolet Suburban. The contact stated upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for tire replacement, he was informed that the entire chassis was severely corroded. The dealer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the manufacturer for assistance. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 84,000.

Started with driver side heated seat randomly turning on and off. Going from high, medium, low. No way to turn it off just comes back on. Can hear clicking coming from under dash. Lift gate wiring that goes into body, ground wire burnt. (Replaced) but ground wire has power. (Wiring issue) so rear wiper doesn’t work. “Reading” Lamps only work when door is open. After replacing life gate connector, says lift gate open. Started the repair, which leads to more wiring issues! Needs a recall! Unsafe

The speedometer issue started 1 year ago, the speedometer shows needle stuck on 0 or all the way down to right side. Now issues with the gas gauge and oil gauge are happening also Mechanic has checked on this and stated that replacement needed.

Heated seats randomly turn on and off and goes thorugh the diffeent levels of heat and then off and then back on repeat for hours while driving and is very distracting as have to turn off every 10 sec and have almost crashed multiple times taking me eyes off the road but have to turn off as heat is too much in summer months, this is a known issue in almost ever suburban 01 to 05, how is this not a recall yet, there is massive amount of documentation of this issue online.

Gear status indicator does not display selected gear.

THE WIRING FOR THE LIGHTERS, POWER PORTS AND COMPUTER LINK MELTED. IT'S ALL PART OF THE UNDER-DASH WIRING HARNESS.

TRUCK DOOR IS NOT OPENING, FUEL GAS DEFECTIVE, REAR LIGHT SYSTEM HAS ELECTRICAL PROBLEM ALL THE TIMES, A/C SYSTEM ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

OIL PUMP OIL RINGS TO LEAD TO OIL PICKUP TUBE FAILED CAUSING DROP IN OIL PRESSURE. THIS HAPPENS WHEN DRIVING VEHICLE 2 HOURS PLUS.

AIR CONDITIONING WILL RANDOMLY SWITCH TO HOT AIR WHILE DRIVING. IF YOU STOP AND RESTART THE CAR AIR CONDITIONING WILL WORK AGAIN.

FIRST THE TRANSMISSION FAILED RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE 2 YEARS AGO. I HAD TO BUY A NEW TRANSMISSION THAT WASN'T CHEAP AROUND $3,500. THEN THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS STARTED WITH THE RIGHT SIDE LAST YEAR JUST HAD A TON OF PLAY IN IT MY MECHANIC FOUND IT WHEN LIFTING UP MY TRUCK FOR A TIRE ROTATION. THEN THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL BEARING JUST STARTED MAKING A LOAD ROARING NOISE BUT HAD NO PLAY IN IT AT ALL THAT I COULD FEEL WHEN CHECKING IT OUT. BOTH COST AROUND $250 A WHEEL TO REPLACE. NOW MY 5.3 LITER ENGINE IS HAVING A KNOCKING SOUND WHEN AT A STOP AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 30 MINUTES OR WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. ALSO I AM HEARING A SLIGHT TICKING SOUND FROM THE ENGINE COLD OR HOT. I HAVE 4 SMALL KIDS SO I NEED A VERY RELIABLE LARGE VEHICLE AND THIS IS SUBURBAN IS DRIVING ME AND MY WIFE CRAZY HAVING TO POOR MONEY IN THIS VEHICLE EVERY YEAR. I AM THE SOIL PROVIDER FOR MY FAMILY I CANT AFFORD PUTTING ALL MY MONEY INTO A VEHICLE LIKE THIS.

ON 4/11/2020, WHILE TRAVELING NORTHBOUND ON N. MAIN STREET, FAYETTEVILLE, NC AND ACCELERATING FROM THE STOPLIGHT AT THE INTERSECTION OF CAMDEN ROAD, I WAS REQUIRED TO APPLY THE BRAKES FORCEFULLY AND SUDDENLY DUE TO THE ACTIONS OF ANOTHER MOTORIST. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER APPLYING THE BRAKES, I LOST ALL BRAKING POWER AND RESORTED TO UTILIZING THE MANUAL PARKING BRAKE TO BRING THE VEHICLE UNDER CONTROL AND DRIVE IT CAREFULLY BACK TO MY RESIDENCE. AT THE MOMENT OF FAILURE, THE DASHBOARD BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT (AKA, IDIOT LIGHT) ILLUMINATED AND A "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" MESSAGE APPEARED ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. THE BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT CONTINUED TO ILLUMINATE SPORADICALLY DURING THE TRIP BACK TO MY RESIDENCE WHEN TESTING THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR RESUMED FUNCTIONALITY. AFTER ARRIVING HOME, I PERFORMED A QUICK INSPECTION OF THE BRAKING SYSTEM AND FOUND THAT THE PORTION OF THE BRAKES LINES LOCATED ON THE OUTBOARD PORTION OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRAME RAIL HAD RUSTED AND PERFORATED NEAR THE ABS MODULE, CAUSING THE FAILURE ALONG WITH MASSIVE FLUID LOSS (SEE ATTACHED PICS). I PERFORMED A CURSORY INTERNET SEARCH AND DISCOVERED THAT THE NHTSA HAS ALREADY PERFORMED AN INVESTIGATION INTO THIS EXACT ISSUE AND THE INVESTIGATION WAS SUBSEQUENTLY CLOSED WITH NO RECALL ISSUED BY GM. OF NOTE, GM VEHICLES USE A MANUAL PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH LOCATED WITHIN THE BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE THAT ISOLATES THE DAMAGED CIRCUIT IN THE EVENT OF FAILURE AND ALSO ILLUMINATES THE DASHBOARD BRAKE LIGHT. THIS SYSTEM DID NOT OPERATE IN THIS INSTANCE AS EVIDENCED BY LOSING ALL BRAKING, AS OPPOSED TO REDUCED BRAKING, AS WELL AS THE BRAKE LIGHT NOT REMAINING ILLUMINATED. BASED ON THE APPEARANCE OF THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND INDICATION OF RUST IN SEVERAL SPOTS ON THE BODY (E.G, TAILGATE), I BELIEVE THIS TRUCK WAS OPERATED IN ONE OF THE RUST BELT STATES FOR A PERIOD OF TIME BY A PRIOR OWNER.

BRAKES GAVE OUT SUDDENLY WITHOUT WARNING.CHEVY DEALER SAID LINES ARE RUSTED AND NEED REPLACE AT COST OF $1600.ALSO JUST REPLACED STEERING GEAR BOX PITMAN ARM AND IDLER ARM AND WHEEL BEARING HUB AT A COST OF $2300 BECAUSE YOUR NUTS ON THE STEERING ASSEMBLY HAVE A TENDENCY TO COME OFF.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE CONTACT HAD TO APPLY THE EMERGENCY BRAKE AND VEERED THE VEHICLE TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD, WHICH ALLOWED THE VEHICLE TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED BY ONSTAR TO DENOOYER CHEVROLET (127 WOLF RD, ALBANY, NY 12205, (518) 458-7700) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BRAKE LINES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 111,795.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE EXPRESSWAY WHEN I HAD TO APPLY A STRONG FORCE TO THE BRAKES IN ORDER TO AVOID HITTING A VEHICLE. SIMULTANEOUSLY, THE SURBURBAN BRAKES BECAME VERY STIFF AND I LOST POWER STEERING AT THE SAME TIME. AFTER APPLYING AN EXTREME EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF FORCE I WAS ABLE TO STOP THE VEHICLE AND AVOID AN ACCIDENT. I HAD TO FIND THE NEAREST EXIT AND WHILE DOING SO IT WAS EXTREMELY HARD TO MAKE A 15 DEGREE TURN AND ALSO EXTREMELY HARD TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS AND I WAS SCARED FOR MY LIFE. I TOLD A MECHANIC ABOUT THIS AND HE SAID IT SOUND LIKE A BAD HYDRO BOOSTER. I LOOKED IT UP ONLINE AND SAW THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON IT. WHEN I LOOKED IT UP IT SAID 0 OPEN. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE. PLEASE HELP!.

I NOTICED CORRODED AND WHAT I WOULD CALL CHARRED OR BURNT WIRING ON THE WIRING HARNESS FOR THE REAR LIFT GATE OF MY SUBURBAN. I NOTICED IT WHEN I OPENED THE LIFT GATE TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE REAR OF THE SUBURBAN. IT APPEARS THAT THE RUBBER GROMMET MATERIAL PROTECTING THE WIRING HARNESS, WAS BURNT OR MELTED AWAY. THE RUBBER HOSE THAT SUPPLIES WATER TO THE REAR WINDOW WASHER/WIPER HAD A HOLE IN IT, AND MAY HAVE BEEN LEAKING WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID ONTO THE WIRES FOR A TIME. THE WIRES WERE BARE IN SOME SPOTS, SOME OF THE WIRE INSULATION LOOKED MELTED/BURNT AWAY, AND THEY LOOKED CORRODED/WITH A GREEN COLOR TO THEM. THE CONNECTOR THAT CONNECTS THE HARNESS, TO THE REST OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, LOOKED LIKE IT HAS SOME BLACK/ POSSIBLY BURNT RESIDUE ON IT. I CAN TAKE A GUESS AT BEST, THAT BECAUSE OF THE HOLE IN THE RUBBER HOSE, WATER MAY HAVE BEEN LEAKING ONTO THE ELECTRICAL WIRING/CONNECTIONS WHEN I USED THIS FEATURE TO CLEAR DIRT FROM THE LIFT GATE WINDOW, BUT I DON'T REALLY KNOW FOR SURE IF THAT IS HOW THE DAMAGE TO THE WIRING HARNESS HAS OCCURED! THANKS!