2012 Dodge Caliber

Rear subframe rotted out, detached at tire arm...see many complaints online

The contact owns a 2012 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that there was a rattling noise coming from the front sub frame of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a local independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the sub frame was rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. A local dealer was contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 108,000.

Due to the subframe rusting on the undercarriage of the car, the lower ball joint completely detached from the car, cause the driver side tire to fall off during operation.

Front and back subframes of car are/were rusted. The front was replaced last year and the rear needs to be done. I'm waiting for an estimate for that. Pic shows the rust taken by my mechanic 2 weeks ago..

Frame rotted out

I recently only had my 2012 dodge caliber for a year now and out of that year it’s been giving me problems since I had it! The car had completely shut down on me for weeks while I was in the process of burying my father in law who gave me Covid after he passed. Weeks later we ended up figuring out what the issue was which was the tipm. I remember having to tap the battery with a wire for it to start and it didn’t matter what the weather looked like. Well that didn’t last long because it broke down on me again after I’ve replaced almost everything there was under the hood; the battery, the alternator, the fuses to the tipm and relay, the brake light switch, the ignition switch and all the fuses. Now here it is I’m making a car payment and still paying insurance for a vehicle I haven’t driven in months. I ended up researching this car and I see these cars are not reliable and I wish I would have known especially with two small children I already have! I recently read that this vehicle was in a dealer auction but never was told why; not once but twice actually. I despise these cars if I knew what I know now I would of never got this vehicle. I still owe 5grand on this car at that so I’m right back at square one but this go round got two extra bills that I waste money in

Subframe on the vehicle at 90,000 was found to have SEVERE huge rotted holes in the subframe that is supporting the engine. This can allow the engine to drop out of the vehicle at any given moment and cost to repair is $1200 which is insane.

The contact owns a 2012 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated while driving at 15 MPH, the stability and throttle body malfunction indicators warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. An unknown dealer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but did not provide any assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 88,000.

Lately I have noticed a wobble when I drive on the highway. Saturday, 07/24/2021, I took my 2012 Dodge Caliber with only 74,753 miles on it to the mechanics for an alignment, rotation and weight balance on the car. This is not my first time at the mechanics and they had seen the car in the Summer of 2020 and for inspection November of 2020. The mechanics then took me in to see the car after it was up on the lift which is never a good thing. There is a gaping rusted hole in the frame, I did not think to take a picture but I should have. I have been searching online and found a site listing over 70 reports of rusted frames on Dodge Caliber and all reports state this is not covered under warranty or the warranty expired. https://www.carproblemzoo.com/dodge/caliber/frame-rust-problems2.php based on the amount of issues, some even reporting wrecking with a complete loss, this should be a Safety Recall. As it is the mechanic has given me a starting estimate of $1800 but based on other people's reports they were charged $2k-3k for repairs. I will be contacting Chrysler/Dodge on Monday as I do not relish the thought of this level of repair financially for something that should be built to last 100+k miles!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V668000 (SEAT BELTS, AIR BAGS) HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS NOT YET AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER HAD EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. AN UNKNOWN DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR RECALL REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

LOCAL REPAIR SHOP DOING OIL CHANGE NOTICED FRONT CROSS MEMBER WAS RUSTED OUT. *TR

I RECENTLY BROUGHT A USED VEHICLE, WHEN I TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE EVERYTHING RAN SMOOTHLY AND THINGS WERE WORKING JUST FINE, NO PROBLEMS. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AND WHEN I GOT OUT THE VEHICLE AND TRIED TO USE THE KEYPAD TO LOCK THE DOORS, IT DIDN'T WORK AND ACTUALLY STARTED THE CAR THAN THE ALARM WENT OFF. I HAD TO START THE ENGINE AND SHUT IT BACK OFF AND MANUALLY GO AND LOCK ALL DOORS BECAUSE I ALSO NOTICED THE LOCK DOOR BUTTON ON THE DOOR DID NOT WORK BUT THE WINDOW BUTTONS DOES. I IMMEDIATELY CALLED THEM AND INFORMED THEM OF THE ISSUE THAT I WAS EXPERIENCING. ABOUT 1 WEEK WENT BY AND I STARTED TO FEEL THE CAR DRAGGING WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE AS WELL AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT COMING ON. AND MOST OF ALL I NOTICED HOW QUICKLY THE MILEAGE WAS MOVING VERSUS THE MILEAGE I SIGNED IT AT. I ALSO CALLED IN AND REPORTED WHAT I WAS EXPERIENCING, THEY SUGGESTED I BRING IN THE VEHICLE TO A SHOP THEY CONTRACT WITH TO SEE THE PROBLEM AND RESOLVE IT. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN ON THE NEXT AVAILABLE DAY FOR ME FOR ABOUT 4-6 HOURS, I WAS CALLED BACK TO PICK THE VEHICLE BACK UP. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT WAS OFF BUT NOTHING ELSE AS FAR AS THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITHIN THE CAR, AND THE DRAGGING FEELING AS WELL AS THE MILEAGE TROUBLESHOOTING. I WASN'T SATISFIED WITH THE WORK THAT WAS DONE, SO I CALLED AGAIN TO REPORT THE TROUBLES AND REQUEST FOR A REFUND BECAUSE I WAS NOT SATISFIED WITH THE VEHICLE AND HOW HIGH THE MILEAGE GOES WHEN I ONLY DRIVE 25 MILES BACK AND FORTH 6 DAYS A WEEK. I'VE HAD THE VEHICLE FOR 8 WEEKS NOW, AND THIS CAR MAINTENANCE IS POOR AS WELL AS I HAVE A STRONG FEELING THE CARS BEEN TAMPERED WITH BECAUSE OF THE DAMAGE TO ONE OF THE VENTS IN THE CAR ON THE DASH BOARD, AS WELL AS THE CAR NEEDING AN OIL CHANGE ALREADY AND I ONLY HAD THE VEHICLE SINCE MARCH 20, 2020. *TR

I RECENTLY BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM NORTHTOWN DODGE IN BUFFALO NY IN JAN OF 2019. AS THE WEATHER GOT WARMER MY TRANSMISSION OVERHEATED LITE COMES ON. I CAN'T DRIVE MORE THAN 50 MILES TOPS WITH OUT IT OVER HEATING. I'M THE SECOND OWNER. I AM FINANCING THIS CAR AND CAN ONLY DRIVE IT LOCALLY. I'VE ALSO READ THAT THERE IS A LIFETIME WARRANTY FOR THE POWERTRAIN ONLY IF YOUR THE ORIGINAL OWNER. THE CAR ONLY HAD 64000 MILES ON IT AND IT HAS 69771. SO PLEASE HELP ME WITH THIS ISSUE I AM A DISABLED VETERAN AND THIS CAR IS MY ONLY MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION.

ENGINE CRADLE RUSTED OUT AFTER ONLY 7YEARS

WAS DRIVING AND LOST ALL POWER WHEN THE LIGHTENING BOLT LIGHT CAME ON. HAD THE THROTTLE BODY REPLACED AND WAS FINE FOR A FEW MONTHS. NOW THE LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON AGAIN AND I'VE TAKEN THE CAR TO THE DEALER AT LEAST 15 TIMES AND THEY KEEP RELPLACING DIFFERENT SENSORS AND WIRING. I HAVE SPENT THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS FOR AN ISSUE THAT WILL NOT GO AWAY AND NO ONE CAN SEEM TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE REAL ISSUE IS BECAUSE EVERYTIME THEY 'FIX' ONE THING IT SEEMS TO BRING UP OTHER CODES.

WHEN BRAKING THE ELECTRIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT FLASHES MOMENTARILY. IT DOES NOT STAY ON. THE CAR DOES NOT BRAKE COMPLETELY AT THESE TIMES AND CONTINUES TO ACCELERATE AND MOVE FORWARD ANOTHER FOOT OR TWO DESPITE PRESSING THE BRAKE. WHEN BRAKING TODAY THE CAR CONTINUED TO ACCELERATE FASTER WHILE THE FOOT WAS ON THE BRAKE. IN RESEARCHING THIS, IT SEEMS THE CALIBER SPECIFICALLY HAS A HISTORY OF ETC OR ELECTRIC THROTTLE ISSUES. YEARS AFFECTED BY THIS SAFETY ISSUE INCLUDE 2007 THROUGH 2012; BUT THERE IS NO OFFICIAL RECALL FROM DODGE. THIS IS A RECALL NECESSARY ISSUE! THE ESSENTIAL FUNCTION OF ACCELERATION AND BRAKING ARE NON COMPROMISE AREAS OF VEHICLE DESIGN THAT DODGE HAS DONE LITTLE TO ADDRESS IN THE CALIBER MODEL.

THE STRUCTURE/FRAME IN THE FRONT OF OUR 2012 DODGE CALIBER WAS SO RUSTED THAT IT BROKE WHILE WE WERE DRIVING. THE FRAME BROKE WHEN WE PULLED OFF OF THE INTERSTATE AND STOPPED AT THE END OF AN EXIT. THIS ISSUE HAS NOT BEEN ADDRESSED BY A RECALL, B UT A BULLETIN HAS BEEN RELEASED.

PER THE X69 WARRANTY NOTICE I HAD THE CROSSMEMBER REPLACED. THE DEALERSHIP STATES THAT DODGE DOES NOT COVER THE ALIGNMENT THAT IS NEEDED DUE TO THE CROSSMEMBER REPAIR. THE REPAIR OF THE DEFECT CAUSED THE NEED FOR THE ALIGNMENT. THIS SEEMS TO BE A SCAM

MY DRIVERS SIDE SEAT BELT AUTOMATICALLY UNLATCHES ITSELF. I DON'T HAVE TO BE DOING ANYTHING. I GIVE IT TUG EVERY TIME I BUCKLE TO MAKE SURE IT FASTEN. BUT WHILE DRIVING IT WILL ON IT'S ON COME UNLATCHED AND RELEASED. IT HAS HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING AND JUST SITTING AT RED LIGHT. I IMMEDIATELY REFASTEN IT BUT THIS HAS HAPPENED ENOUGH TIME TO RAISE CONCERN IF I WOULD BE SAFE IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT.

2012 DODGE CALIBER BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE THROTTLE CONTROL, CAR WILL NOT DRIVE, IT JERKS IT YOU TRY TO CHANGE GEARS. THIS HAS BEEN A PROBLEM FOR THESE CARS FOR YEARS, AND IT SEEMS THE COMPANY WILL NOT LOOK INTO IT, NOT ONLY 2012 MODELS BUT LATER MODELS TOO. THIS IS AN EXPENSIVE JOB, AND THE CONSUMER HAS TO PAY THE PRICE.