2006 Subaru Outback

I was driving home when my brake pedal went all the way to the floor. Next, I realized I could not stop the vehicle. I was able to pull over and stop. A puddle was pooling under my vehicle by the rear passenger tire. I received no lights or illumination or warning.

My brake warning light came on as I was driving down a steep decline on a narrow road. When I found a safe place to pull over I found I had very little brakes. It was found that once a plastic shield was removed from the rear of the car that the plastic shield was full of mud and water and had corroded the brake lines causing the brake fluid to drain out of the system. It appears there was a recall for this but only in salt belt states. I have only owned the car for a year and it does not show any outstanding recalls.

Was driving approximately 35mph missed my turn went to hit brakes and brakes pedal went straight to the floor.started pumping the brakes to stop the car and had to use emergency brake to stop completely. After getting car home inspected rear brakes and both rear brakes lines are rust covered at connections.The passenger rear brake line had burst where 2 pieces of the line connect before going up and over gas tank.

All the brake lines rusted through where they were unprotected and inserted into body clips resulting in a complete loss of brake fluid and the inability to stop the vehicle.

The contact owns a 2006 Subaru Outback. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V311000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic). The contact took the vehicle to the local dealer and had the recall repair completed. The contact stated on 11/30/2022 while his wife was driving 35 MPH, the brake pedal was depressed but failed to stop the vehicle. The contact stated that the low brake fluid warning light was illuminated. The driver continued to depress the brake pedal until the vehicle started to decelerate. The vehicle was parked on the side of the road. The vehicle was not drivable. The contact drove another vehicle to the location and trailered the vehicle back to his residence. The contact called the local dealer and made them aware of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 168,000.

Rusting brake line recall WQK47 supposedly done to the vehicle June of 2015 with the vehicle having 244,246 miles. No brake lines were replaced at that time and only assume they only sprayed something on them. Car now has 288,500 miles and the right rear brake line rotted out in the clip mount to the body. Luckily wife was able to stop the car and didn't get into an accident.

Rear hatch door malfunction of security lock.

The engine will randomly loose power. This has happened three times now. You must coast to a stop, turn the key off and try to restart the car. Sometime it will take several tries to restart. I see this as a real safety concern in heavy traffic. Especially so if heavy traffic makes it impossible to reach the side of the road safely. The service code points to the throttle peddle position sensor. Reading some of the internet forums it seems to be a fairly common issue. Of course internet forums must be considered carefully. However with the above said I see this issue as a real safety concern. Not only for my safety but those around me if this happens in heavy traffic. Thank you

The vehicle becomes uncontrollable on light ice. The rear end will "ghost walk" (seems to steer on its own). I have driven in snow my entire life and have never experienced this issue in any other vehicle. I am also an ASE certified master technician. It only happens if I have passengers in the rear seat or groceries in the cargo area. The car is not even close to its cargo limit. The tires have been replaced and an alignment performed and the issue remains. I found that this is a commonly reported problem in the forums. The car is absolutely unsafe in this condition. I was being passed by every other car on the road. The rear end will float back and forth over 35 mph regardless of any driver input (acceleration, deceleration, steering input etc).

The accelerator pedal position sensor is faulty. It is prone to wear in these vehicles based on my research. This caused my car to go into limp-mode on the highway, rapidly cutting my speed in half. The accelerator provides no response until vehicle was restarted. The ECU put out the code P2138 for loss of voltage in throttle system.

OBD Code P2138 (Throttle/ Pedal Position Sensor/ Switch D / E voltage correlation). This code pops up intermittently resulting in the car going into "limp mode". Truly dangerous, if this occurs when traveling at speed in traffic or when pulling away from a stop light. It is hard to pin down; but, it generally happens with high humidity or When you start the car after a cool night when there has been a lot of condensation that has formed on the car. A check of Subaru forums shows that this is a prevalent and / or recurring problem with many Subaru models. (I have also found mention of similar problems with other manufactures.) Dealers and mechanics have confirmed this problem with other Subaru makes. There is no advance warning of this malfunction until after it occurs. Once it occurs the car goes into "limp mode", the check engine light flashes and the cruise control light flashes.

The contact owns a 2006 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while driving 55 MPH, the vehicle shut-off with the check engine and cruise control warning lights illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle went into limp mode as the contact steered the vehicle to the shoulder of the highway. Due to the failure, the contact had the vehicle towed to an independent mechanic where they diagnosed the vehicle with a defective throttle body. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was repaired but remained in the possession of the dealer. The failure mileage was approximately 217,000.

2006 SUBARU OUTBACK HEAD GASKETS WENT BAD AT ABOUT 35,000 MILES.HAD TO REPLACE THOSE CALLED SUBARU AND THEY HELP ME GET THOSE REPLACED. THOUGHT ALL WAS WELL SOON AFTER, THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INCLUDING THE AIR CONDITIONER AND THE HEATER .THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THE AIRBAGS WERE DEFAULTED AND TO BRING IT INTO REPLACE THEM WHICH I DID. THE FINAL STRAW IS THAT THEY CALLED ME AGAIN TWO WEEKS AGO TO BRING THE RIGGING TO REPLACE THAT SAME AIRBAG AGAIN. I ASKED THEM WHY THEY GAVE ME A CAR THAT WASN'T SAFE. THE WHEEL BEARINGS ALSO WORE OUT VERY EARLY AROUND 50 MILES. THIS CAR HAS BEEN SO EXPENSIVE. AND NOW THEY INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS A SECOND RECALL ON THE AIRBAG. SO I BRING IT IN FOR THE SECOND TIME REALIZING THAT NOW IN 2021 THIS CAR HAS NOT BEEN SAFE THE WHOLE TIME I'VE BEEN DRIVING IT WITH MY FAMILY MY DAUGHTER LEARNED HOW TO DRIVE IN THIS CAR AND SO DID MY SON. AS THEY WERE REPAIRING THE FAULTY AIRBAG THEY CRACKED THE DASHBOARD AND THEN INFORMED ME THAT IT WOULD BE $300 TO FIX IT BECAUSE IT HAD A TINY CRACK IN IT. PLEASE NOTE THAT THEY WERE THE ONES THAT TOOK THE DASHBOARD OFF IN THE FIRST PLACE. SUPER RUDE! I CALLED SUBARU OF AMERICA AND THEY DECIDED TO REIMBURSE ME FOR THE DASHBOARD. THEY WERE TALKING ABOUT GLUING IT BACK TOGETHER LAST I HEARD I'M VERY MUCH HOPING THIS IS NOT THE CASE MY DAUGHTER ENSURES ME THAT IT ISN'T BUT WE'LL SEE. ALSO HE INFORMED ME THAT MY HEAD GASKETS WERE LEAKING AGAIN. THE MECHANIC SAID THAT THIS IS COMMON ONCE YOU'VE HAD YOUR GASKETS REPLACED. THIS MAKES NO SENSE TO ME. MY CAR HAS ABOUT 160,000 MILES ON IT AND IT SEEMS LIKE IT'S ALREADY PLAYED OUT AND NOT SAFE. WHAT A JOKE. I'LL NEVER BUY A SUBARU AGAIN.THIS HAS BEEN THE WORST CAR AND APPARENTLY THE MOST UNSAFE CAR I'VE EVER OWNED. NOTE:THIS CAR WAS CONSISTENTLY UNSAFE WHILE DRIVING FOR THE LAST 15 YEARS. I BOUGHT IT BECAUSE IT HAD A FIVE STAR RATING FOR SAFETY WHAT A JOKE!

I EXPERIENCED MY GAS PEDAL NO LONGER WORKING WHILE DRIVING, CAR WAS DRIVING WELL, ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET GOING ABOUT 25 MPH, THEN THERE WAS SUDDENLY NO GAS/ACCELERATION, HAD TO COAST TO A STOP. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT WAS FLASHING. ABOUT 2 HOURS LATER THE CAR WAS RUNNING NORMAL AGAIN. THE DIAGNOSIS CODE GIVEN WAS P2138 THROTTLE/PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH D/E VOLTAGE CORRELATION. IT IS VERY SCARY AND UNSAFE TO SUDDENLY NOT HAVE POWER WHILE DRIVING, WILL BE DRIVING ON THE OUTSIDE LANE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED TO I CAN GET OUT OF TRAFFIC SAFELY.

I'M DRIVING ALONG & SUDDENLY ALL THE LIGHTS GO ON & THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL DOES NOTHING, THE CAR JUST LOSES POWER. I HAVE TO PULL OVER, NOT ALWAYS IN A SAFE SPOT, BECAUSE IT WON'T DO ANYTHING! TURN THE CAR OFF & WAIT 5 MINUTES. THEN IT WILL START BACK UP, WITH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT & CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT BLINKING. AFTER ABOUT 3 RESTARTS THOSE LIGHTS TURN OFF. I'VE HAD THEERROR CODE READ & ITS P2138. WHEN A CAR JUST STOPS DRIVING IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC, IT'S VERY DANGEROUS & I'VE BEEN READING ONLINE THAT IT'S COMMON IN THIS YEAR SUBARU & IT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED!! IT'S BEEN HAPPENING MORE FREQUENTLY & LAST TIME ON THE FREEWAY!!!

I WAS DRIVING STRAIGHT DOWN THE HIGHWAY GOING ABOUT 50-60 MPH AND OUT OF NOWHERE MY THROTTLE PEDDLE FAILED TO WORK. MY CAR IMMEDIATELY SLOWED DOWN TO A CRAWL AND I HAD TO QUICKLY FIND A SAFE PLACE TO PULL OVER ON A ROAD WITH BARELY ANY SHOULDER. LUCKILY NOT MANY CARS WERE ON THE ROAD SO I DID NOT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT A PILE-UP ACCIDENT. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON WHILE THE CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT BEGAN TO FLASH ON AND OFF. AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF AND WAITING A FEW MINUTES I DECIDED TO TRY AND DRIVE THE CAR AGAIN SINCE I WAS IN AN AREA WITH NO SERVICE AND IT WAS BELOW FREEZING OUTSIDE. THE CAR STARTED AND I COULD USE THE THROTTLE PEDDLE AND THE CAR DROVE WITH NO PROBLEM FOR ABOUT 5 MILES BEFORE THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENED. LUCKILY SOMEONE DROVE BY AND I WAS ABLE TO CATCH A RIDE WITH THEM TO GET SERVICE AND CALL A TOW TRUCK. THIS ISSUE CAME OUT OF NOWHERE WITH NO PRIOR ISSUES TO THE CAR. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS ISSUE THAT COULD RESULT IN NOT ONLY AN ACCIDENT ON THE ROAD BECAUSE OF THE RAPID SPEED DECREASE BUT ALSO RISKS LEAVING PEOPLE STRANDED LIKE I WAS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING AT 35 MPH, THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO DEPRESS THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL HOWEVER, THE PEDAL REMAINED IN THE UPRIGHT POSITION. THE VEHICLE SHIFTED INTO LIMP MODE. THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT PULLED OVER, TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO THE RESIDENCE. THE FAILURE RECURRED SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. NEITHER A DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 160,000.

AT HIGHWAY SPEED THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST POWER. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON SOLID WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT BLINKING. THE CAR DID NOT RESPOND TO ANY INPUTS FROM THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL AND BEGAN TO DECELERATE. UPON STOPPING AND SHIFTING INTO NEUTRAL THE CAR HELD ITSELF AROUND 2800RPM WITH NO ACCELERATOR INPUT FROM THE DRIVER. AFTER READING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CODE, THE CAR GAVE A P2138 INDICATING A PROBLEM WITH THE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR.

GAS PEDAL QUITS WORKING LEAVING MY DAUGHTER STRANDED, MUST BE IN THE DRIVE BY WIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, LOOKING AT FORUMS, THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE. *TR

THREE TIMES THE ENGINE RPM'S SPEED UP AND THE THROTTLE PEDDLE FAILS TO WORK, THE ONLY WAY TO RESET THIS IS PULL TO THE SIDE TURN CAR OFF AND IT USUALLY BUT NOT ALWAYS RESETS. THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE WHILE CAR WAS IN MOTION AND ONCE WHILE CAR WAS IN PARK. LUCKILY I WAS IN A 40 MPH ZONE WHEN THIS HAPPENED AND NOT ON THE HIGHWAY. I HAVE HAD THE CAR LOOKED AT AND IT HAS A ENGINE CODE THAT SAYS THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE THROTTLE SYSTEM. IT'S ONLY A MATTER OF TIME THAT THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION AND THROTTLE PEDDLE IS UNRESPONSIVE AND UNABLE TO PULL TO SIDE OF ROADWAY.