2010 Toyota Sequoia

I bought the vehicle under the assumption that it only had 138,000 miles on it. Upon trying to register it with Carfax I was informed that the odometer had been tampered with and the actual mileage is 345,000

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2010 Toyota Sequoia. The contact stated that while attempting to register the vehicle, it was discovered that there was a mileage discrepancy. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 90,586, and at the time of checking the Carfax, it was discovered that the mileage was 260,000.

Power steering rack assembly malfunctioned and started shaking violently. Upon inspection, a fluid leak was found from the passenger side of the steering rack.

The contact owns a 2010 Toyota Sequoia. The contact stated while driving approximately 35 MPH, he noticed that the rear wheels were extended outward. The contact looked under his vehicle and noticed that the rear subframe and suspension were extremely rusted. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer; however, there was no diagnostic test performed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 184,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Toyota Sequoia. The contact stated that while driving approximately 60 MPH, the vehicle suddenly experienced unintended acceleration and the speed continued to increase. While depressing the brake pedal, the speed continued to increase and exceeded 95 mph. The driver used the parking brake to eventually stop the vehicle and turn off the engine. After restarting the vehicle, the RPM continued to rev very high. The vehicle was towed to the local dealer. The cause of the failure was not yet determined. The contact was informed that the vehicle was not included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 10V017000 (Vehicle Speed Control). The contact indicated that the vehicle had experienced the failure listed in the recall. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Toyota Sequoia. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an unknown dealer to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that there was moisture and condensation in the air injection pump and the air switching valve. The contact stated that there was a manufacturer’s warranty pertaining to the failure causing the check engine warning light to become illuminated however, the warranty was for 150,000 miles or 10 years, whichever came first. The vehicle was no longer covered under the warranty. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 103,000. "The contact was informed that there was moisture and condensation in the air injection pump and the air switching valve." since this is not correct. The dealer only said that the items needed to be replaced due to the indicator light. They could not verify that there was a specific issue with the parts but said that it was an indicator that the parts could go bad and needed to be replaced.

A VALVE SPRING BROKE WHILE TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY, CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO SHUDDER AND REQUIRE A SLOWER SPEED. I FORTUNATELY WAS NOT IN HEAVY TRAFFIC BUT HAD CIRCUMSTANCES BEEN DIFFERENT THIS COULD HAVE POSED A MORE SEVERE SAFETY ISSUE. UPON RESEARCHING THIS PROBLEM, I'M FINDING INCREASINGLY MORE INSTANCES WHERE THE SAME ISSUE HAS HAPPENED TO OTHER TOYOTA OWNERS WITH THE SAME ENGINE. ALL AROUND THE SAME MILEAGE (117K).

I PURCHASED THIS 2010 SEQUOIA IN OHIO A FEW YEARS AGO. I BELIEVE IT WAS PREVIOUSLY OWNED IN MA. THE REAR HATCH DOOR LOCK LOOKED LIKE IT HAD GOTTEN WATER DAMAGE AND HAS BEEN GETTING STUCK, MORE NOW THAN WHEN I GOT IT. IT'S GETTING TO THE POINT WHERE IT TAKES SEVERAL TRIES TO MANUALLY OPEN, FEELS LIKE IT'S STILL LOCKED EVEN THOUGH IT SOUNDS LIKE IT UNLOCKS. SOMETIMES I CAN'T GET IT TO OPEN AT ALL AFTER 10 MINUTES OF TRYING. I'VE GIVEN UP ON THE TRYING THE INTERIOR BUTTON AND THE BUTTON ON THE FOB TO TRY TO OPEN IT. IT ACTS LIKE IT'S GOING TO OPEN AND THEN BEEPS TWICE AND STOPS. AGAIN, THE LATCH IS LOCKED TIGHT WHEN IT SHOULD BE UNLATCHED. IVE TRIED SPYING LUBRICATIONS IN IT WHEN IT'S OPEN. SOMETIMES IT HELPS FOR A WHILE THEN IT GETS STUCK AGAIN. I COULDN'T GET OUR SOFTBALL TEAM EQUIPMENT OUT FOR THE GAME. EMBARRASSING.

DOOR NOT UNLOCKING. CAR WAS PARKED AND CHILD ENTERED VEHICLE FROM DRIVERS SIDE AND CLIMBED INTO THE BACK SEAT TO RETRIEVE TOY. MOM WAS STANDING AT FRONT PASSENGERS DOOR OUTSIDE AND COULD NOT OPEN DOOR TO COOL OFF INTERIOR OF CAR AS CHILDS PANTS LEG BECAME STUCK WHILE CLIMBING OVER SEATS. PARENT HAD UNLOCKING FOB IN HAND AND DOORS WOULD NOT UNLOCK ON PASSENGER SIDE. MOM HAD TO RUSH AROUND TO DRIVERS SIDE OF THE CAR AND OPEN DOOR THAT CHILD ENTERED AND ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW IN THE BACK SEAT TO GAIN ACCESS TO CHILD. DOOR LOCK DID NOT DISENGAGE UNTIL WINDOW WAS ROLLED DOWN AND THE LOCK WAS RELEASE FROM INSIDE THE CAR.

WHILE TOWING 6000 LB TRAVEL TRAILER HEAT EXITING THE EXHAUST HAS MELTED REAR BUMPER COVER NEAR EXHAUST TIP. EVERYTHING ON VEHICLE IS FACTORY ORIGINAL AND SHOULD NOT BE MELTING FROM EXCESS HEAT GENERATED BY TOWING WITHIN FACTORY SPECIFIED WEIGHT LIMITS. POSES A FIRE RISK.

MY TOYOTA SEQUOIA LIFT GATE OUTSIDE HANDLE HAS STICKY MELTED TAR TYPE MATERIAL COVERING THE SWITCH. THE RUBBER BOOT COVERS THE ELECTRONIC SWITCH TO RELEASE THE LIFT GATE IS COMPLETELY MELTED. IT IS VERY HARD TO OPEN THE REAR LIFT GATE BY PUSHING THE HANDLE. THE BLACK TAR LIKE MATERIAL STICKS TO THE FINGERS AND IT IS VERY HARD TO CLEAN BY JUST WASHING HANDS. THE DEALER WANTED OVER $451 TO REPLACE THE SWITCH. I AM SURE I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS ISSUE. MY CAR STAYS IN THE GARAGE AT HOME AND AT WORK. I PURCHASED THE ORIGINAL TOYOTA EXTENDED PLATINUM WARRANTY WHEN I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE. I FIRST NOTICED THE ISSUE IN 2015 AND TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP BUT THAT PART WAS NOT COVERED UNDER EITHER (STANDARD OR EXTENDED) WARRANTY. I THINK THE RUBBER MATERIAL USED IN THE SWITCH IS INFERIOR QUALITY CAUSING THIS ISSUE.

I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN FOR A 55,000 MILE SERVICE. TOYOTA DEALERSHIP INFORMS ME THAT THE VEHICLE IS LEAKING OIL FROM BOTH SIDE OF THE CAM TOWER. THEIR ESTIMATE TO FIX IS OVER $4000. PARTS ARE $170 AND 25 TO 30 HOURS OF LABOR TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE ENGINE. THE LEAKING OIL IS A SAFETY CONCERN, AND IT IS DUE TO A FAILED SEALANT THAT APPEARS TO HAVE COME THAT WAY FROM THE FACTORY FROM MANY OTHER CASES I HAVE READ. THE COST OF REPAIR MAKES IT UNREALISTIC FOR MOST OWNERS WHO WILL MORE THAN LIKELY NOT REPAIR IT IN A TIMELY MANNER. THE ISSUE MAY ALSO GO UNNOTICED IF TAKEN TO ANOTHER MECHANIC OTHER THAN A DEALER WHO IS NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 TOYOTA SEQUOIA. THE CONTACT STATED THE REAR DOOR LATCH WAS CORRODED AND MELTED AWAY. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE REAR DOOR. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE DOOR LATCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100,000.

I HAVE AN AMMONIA SMELL, WORSE THAN A ROTTEN EGG, UNDER HARD ACCELERATION, THAT COMES THROUGH THE VEHICLE VENTS AND INTO THE CABIN, EVEN WITH ALL WINDOWS UP AND VENTS ON RECIRCULATION OR OUTSIDE AIR. MANY SEQUOIA OWNERS HAVE REPORTED THIS TO TOYOTA, AND THEY HAVE NO KNOWN FIX. THE ODOR THAT COMES INTO THE CABIN BURNS YOUR EYES FOR A FEW SECONDS, AS WELL AS MAKES MY PASSENGERS AND I NAUSEOUS, AND DISTRACTS ME WHEN I'M DRIVING. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD, BECAUSE WE ARE INHALING WHATEVER IS IN THE CABIN, AND I CAN IMAGINE THAT IT IS NOT SAFE, LIKE ANY EXHAUST.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 TOYOTA SEQUOIA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE CONTACT STATED THAT NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V014000 (AIR BAGS, SEATS) EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR REPAIR. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE DELAY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED ON APRIL 11, 2015. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 114,252. UPDATED 5/4/15*CN UPDATED 07/07/16*JB

TOOK VEHICLE OUT CAME HOME. TURNED VEHICLE OFF THEN WENT INSIDE. CAME OUT LATER AND SAW THAT DASH BOARD LIGHTS WERE STILL ON. NOTHING ELSE WAS ON (DOME LIGHTS, RADIO, HEATER, ETC.). TRIED LOOKING FOR SOMETHING OPEN, (DOOR, ETC.). LOOKED IN MAINTENANCE MANUAL AND COULDN'T FIND SOLUTION. SO FIGURE I'D JUST START VEHICLE UP THEN TURN OFF. AFTER STARTING VEHICLE I THEN WENT TO TURN OFF BUT ENGINE WON'T STOP RUNNING . I WAS EVEN ABLE TO PULL KEY OUT AND VEHICLE KEPT RUNNING. DROVE IT TO NEAREST TOYOTA DEALERSHIP WHERE GETTING REPAIRED. *TR

WHILE DRIVING MY 2010 SEQUOIA WE HEAR A CLICKING SOUND COMING FROM THE DRIVER SIDE VENTS AND UNDER THE STEERING WHEEL, A SECOND LATER THE RADIO GOES OUT. THIS EVENT HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES. BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER, THEY REPORTED THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING. BROUGHT IT BACK TO THE DEALER SEVERAL TIMES. THEY REPORT COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING. THE LAST TIME WE BROUGHT IT IN BACK TO THE DEALER WE HARD SEVERAL CLICKING SOUNDS THE RADIO WENT OFF, WE HAD OUR PHONES PLUGGED IN THE CHARGER AND THEY WENT OFF, THE AIR WENT OFF AND THE DASH LIGHTS WENT OFF. IT STAYED OFF FOR SEVERAL MINUTES AND THEN WE HEARD THE CLICKING SOUND AGAIN AND EVERYTHING CAME BACK ON. WE HAVE 4 VIDEO RECORDINGS OF THIS HAPPENING AND WE SHOWED IT TO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND THEY STILL REPORTED THAT THEY FOUND NOTHING. WORRIED IT MAY LEAD TO MORE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. *TR

WHILE WAITING IN TRAFFIC IN A PARKING LOT TO ENTER THE HIGHWAY, WITH CAR IN "DRIVE", FOOT ON BRAKE AND AT A COMPLETE STOP, THE ENGINE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED TO A HIGH IDLE (APPROX 1200-1500 RPM). THE CAR LUNGED FORWARDED SLIGHTLY, BUT I WAS ABLE TO APPLY MORE PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE AND STOP WITHOUT COLLIDING WITH THE VEHICLE AHEAD OF ME. WHEN I ENTERED THE HIGHWAY AND ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE, THE ACCELERATOR WAS UNRESPONSIVE. I WAS ABLE TO COAST BACK TO THE SHOULDER WITHOUT CAUSING ANY TRAFFIC ACCIDENT. I NOTICED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON AND ENGINE WAS STILL AT A HIGH IDLE. I PUT THE CAR IN "PARK" AND TURNED THE ENGINE OFF. AFTER A FEW SECONDS I RESTARTED THE ENGINE; THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS STILL ON BUT THE ENGINE IDLED NORMAL AND THE ACCELERATOR RESUMED NORMAL FUNCTION. THIS INCIDENT HAPPENED ON A SATURDAY. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP EARLY THE FOLLOWING WEEK, BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAD ALREADY GONE OFF. THE DEALERSHIP KEPT THE CAR ALL WEEK, BUT WHEN I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP TO GET THE CAR AT THE END OF THE WEEK, THEY INDICATED THAT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE MALFUNCTION AND NO FAULT CODES WERE STORED IN THE CAR'S COMPUTER. HOWEVER, THE CAR MALFUNCTIONED IN THE EXACT SAME MANNER JUST A FEW HOURS AFTER I LEFT THE DEALERSHIP, FORTUNATELY IN RELATIVELY SAFE CONDITIONS. I WAS AGAIN ABLE TO "RESET" THE ACCELERATOR FUNCTION BY TURNING THE ENGINE OFF AND RESTARTING. AND I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP WITH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STILL ON. THIS TIME THEY INDICATED THAT SEVERAL FAULT CODES HAD BEEN STORED IN THE COMPUTER--SOME THAT THEY WERE NOT FAMILIAR WITH. THEY KEPT THE CAR IN THE SHOP FOR ANOTHER WEEK AND REPLACED THE THROTTLE BODY. I AM CONCERNED THAT THE MALFUNCTION MIGHT BE ELECTRONIC/SOFTWARE RELATED. IF THE ACCELERATOR BECOMES UNRESPONSIVE IN TRAFFIC, THIS WILL OBVIOUSLY CREATE A HAZARDOUS SITUATION. *TR

DATES INDICATED ABOVE ARE APPROXIMATE... IMMEDIATELY AFTER PURCHASE (NEW), I NOTICED THAT THE EMERGENCY / PARKING BRAKE WOULD NOT HOLD THE VEHICLE EVEN ON A SLIGHT INCLINE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER AND ASKED THEM TO ADJUST THE BRAKE. AFTERWARD, I NOTED A SLIGHT IMPROVEMENT, BUT THE PARKING BRAKE STILL WOULD NOT HOLD THE VEHICLE. I INQUIRED ABOUT THE SITUATION AGAIN, AND THE DEALERSHIP'S TECHNICIAN TOLD ME THAT THE BRAKE HAD BEEN ADJUSTED TO THE MAX ALLOWANCE AND THAT THE BRAKE WAS NOT DESIGNED TO HOLD THE VEHICLE, BUT ONLY TO ASSIST WHEN PARKING ON AN INCLINE. I DID NOT AND STILL DO NOT BELIEVE THAT THIS IS TRUE/ACCURATE; HOWEVER, I COULD NOT PROVE OTHERWISE, SO I TOOK NO FURTHER ACTION. *TR

VEHICLE WAS STARTED AND PUT INTO REVERSE. THE VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY BEGAN TO ACCELERATE. BRAKE WAS STEPPED ON AND DEPRESSED WITH BOTH FEET, BUT THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO SPIN TIRES TRYING TO ACCELERATE TO A MAXIMUM SPEED. VEHICLE WAS THEN THROWN INTO "DRIVE" AND THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE TO A MAXIMUM SPEED FORWARD SPINNING ALL FOUR TIRES (WHEN NOT IN FOUR WHEEL DRIVE). THE VEHICLE WAS THEN THROWN INTO PARK AND SHUT DOWN. LATER THAT NIGHT (WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED AND UNOCCUPIED) THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO START ITSELF. THE HEADLIGHTS AND INTERIOR LIGHTS TURNED ON AND OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO SPIN THE STARTER. THE VEHICLE DID NOT START AS IT ALSO APPEARED TO DRAIN THE BATTERY. THIS CONTINUED FOR APPROXIMATELY 5-7 MINUTES. ADDITIONALLY, THE INTERIOR EQUIPMENT SUCH AS THE RADIO AND SPEAKERS TURNED ON AND OFF WHILE THIS ELECTRICAL ISSUED WAS GOING ON. EVENTUALLY THE CAR'S BATTERY FAILED AND ALL OF THE ABNORMALITIES STOPPED. I HAVE NOT STARTED THE VEHICLE SINCE, AND IT WILL BE BROUGHT TO THE DEALER.... *TR