2008 Chrysler 300

I informed the dealership of ignition switch recall shortly after purchasing vehicle. The dealership stated " the VIN number shows no recalls". And that was it said there nothing showing up. I KNOW ignition switch is messed up because every time I would turn the car off I could still feel it running. I've had my car a year and now it will not crank due to ignition switch and now fuel air intake is also messing up and has caused cylinder 6 to miss fire. I have been without a vehicle for a month now and I need it fixed. When test driving the car, it would slow down as I was turning into a place of business and almost getting hit by another vehicle.

The contact owns a 2008 Chrysler 300. The contact stated that the vehicle was repaired under NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V567000 (Electrical System); however, the repair failed to prevent a failure from occurring. The contact stated that several days after the recall repair was completed, the contact had to adjust the ignition switch to start the vehicle. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 68,000.

Engine stall immediately following fuel tank fill up. Chrysler refuses x53 lifetime extended warranty. Service bulletin 14-002-14 Applies to 2005-2006. I own 2008. Identical car. Identical problem. Happens every time fuel is filled.

There is a fuel smell in the car, for the first 1/4 tank of gas. The smell is really bad in the back seat. After the car is under 1/2 tank the fuel odor begins to subside. Passengers in car begin to have headaches and upset stomachs. After veiwing other chrysler forum's - I believe this to be common with this style of car and an extreme Safety issue

The contact’s friend owns a 2008 Chrysler 300C. The contact stated that while his friend was starting the vehicle, there was an abnormal burning odor entering the vehicle through the vents. The contact was informed that there was an unknown warning illuminated. The contact’s friend was no longer able to start the vehicle. Additionally, the key fob was not able to unlock the doors. The contact stated that the key fob battery was replaced; however, the vehicle was no longer starting. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a local dealer or independent mechanic. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The contact researched online and related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V567000 (Electrical System) however, the VIN was not included. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

When taking vehicle for test drive about a month ago, the check engine light was on and after driving it, i noticed when AC was on and when off, the car loses power. When i go to pull out it has no power and i almost got hit in the side every time i would pull out from a busy highway. They had check engine light looked at and they said computer told them it was air valve leak or something like that. I had appointment for them to further assist and they said they could not find anything wrong. I can hear where the valve might be leaking at. The brakes are not good. I had to put on the brakes today fast and brake pedal acted like they were gonna skid out from under my foot. Brakes are new so why is it acting like i have no brakes and there is barley any acceleration. Something is going on and i don't want to be in a car accident just because our warnings are being over looked.

The contact owns a 2008 Chrysler 300. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V352000 (Air Bags) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The local dealer was contacted. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

The contact owns a 2008 Chrysler 300C. The contact stated that while driving at an unknown speed, the vehicle lost motive power without warning. The vehicle failed to restart and was towed to the residence. The contact stated that an independent mechanic was unable to determine the cause of the failure; however, the mechanic stated that the failure could be related to the ignition switch. The contact stated that the vehicle was able to start intermittently; however, the contact stopped driving the vehicle due to a fear that the failure might recur while driving with his family. The contract stated that the vehicle was serviced under NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V567000 (Electrical System) in 2020. The dealer was contacted and stated that he had to pay for a diagnostic test and repair since the vehicle was previously repaired under the recall. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 186,145.

Dealer is unable to order the recalled air bag. I had it in to be fixed a month ago, verified with dealer they had the part before I made the appointment. Took it in and they advised it is on backorder. Called 1q/10 and they advised they are NOT ALLOWED to order the part. What am I supposed to do?

I don't know what had happened I was driving one day and my air bag light came on and it stayed on. Never been in a accident since I got the car had it since 2021

While stopped at a stop light, one of the radiator cooling fans (plastic) disintegrated, severely damaging the radiator beyond repair. Engine coolant was quickly lost. We pulled off to the side of the road. We had to replace the cooling fans and radiator.

I HAVE A 2008 CHRYSLER 300 AND CHRYSLER HAS STOPPED PROVIDING UPDATES TO THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM IN 2018. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AS THE NAVIGATOR PROVIDES PROMPT TO TURN ON THE ROAD WHICH NO LONGER EXIST AS WELL AS TRAVELING ON HIGHWAYS WHICH ARE SHOWN TO BE IN THE MIDDLE OF A FOREST OR SWAMP.

HAIR LIKE CRACKS ABOVE FUEL PUMP! CONSTANTLY LEAKING GAS N CAR STALLING OUT!!!

FOR THE AXLE OR THE WHEEL BEARINGS OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT EVERY TIME I TURN THE WHEEL TO A CERTAIN ANGLE IT POPS ALSO HAS HARD VIBRATION WHILE DRIVING THE BUTTONS HAVE FALLEN OFF THE SEATS THE STEERING PULLS TO THE RIGHT HAS RUST BY THE GAS TANK 0102 SINCE BANKS SENSORS HAVE ONE OUT AND HAS STOPPED STARTING OCCASIONALLY HAVE REPLACED KEY FOB BUT IT OCCASIONALLY STILL HAPPENS AND THE FLOW SENSOR ALERT IS COMING ON FOR THE CODE AIRBAG RECALL NEEDS DONE THE WHEELS PRESSURE SENSOR GAUGE NEVER TURNS OFF FOR THE ALERT I'VE HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED THREE TIMES BECAUSE I'M NON-START AND ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON ALSO DANGEROUSLY THE HEAT SHIELD HAD COME APART ON MY CAR JUST RECENTLY 2020 SUPER DANGEROUS WHILE DRIVING

THE DEALER CHANGED THE IGNITION SWITCH PER THE RECALL 14V567000 FOR THE VEHICLE ABOUT 2-3 YEARS AGO FOR A DIFFERENT ISSUE WITH THE SWITCH. MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING THE CAR ABOUT WEEK AGO JULY 30, 2020, SHE SAID SHE WAS AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT ON A BUSY STREET (LINCOLN HIGHWAY) IN CHICAGO HEIGHTS IL AND WHEN IT TURN GREEN SHE ATTEMPTED TO GO AND THE VEHICLE CUTOFF AND WOULD NOT START BACK UP. I ARRIVED TO HER LOCATION. ANOTHER DRIVER HAD PUSHED HER INTO A PARKING LOT TO GET HER OUT OF THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY, I TRIED TO START THE CAR AND IT WOULD NOT CATCH. IT WOULD CRANK PUT NOT TURN OVER, I HAD TO GET IT TOWED HOME. AFTER SOME TESTING OF COMPONENTS, SPARK, GAS PRESSURE AND FUEL PUMP IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH A BAD IGNITION SWITCH WITH A P2533 CODE THAT STATED THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH RUN POSITION SIGNAL. THIS IS A VERY TROUBLING EVENT SINCE MY RECENTLY TURN 18 DAUGHTER HAS NO EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SORT OF THING AND THANKFULLY THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT OR PHYSICAL HARM DONE. I SPOKEN WITH A PERSON AT A CHRYLSER DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT ABOUT MANUFACTURER COVERAGE BUT SHE DID NOT HAVE A CLUE AND TRANSFERRED MY CALL TO THE PARTS DEPARTMENT THAT STATED IT MIGHT RUN $800- 1,000.00 TO REPLACE THE SWITCH.

IT SEEMS CHRYSLER DOESN'T HAVE THE CORRECT FUEL PUMP ! THEY SELL MY 3 DIFFERENT ONES AND ALL DO NOT WORK. THEY EVEN MATCH IT WITH THE VIN! I CAN'T GET ONE TO WORK AND I SPENT THOUSANDS. A LOT OF OTHERS ON 300 FORUMS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE !! SO MANY 6.1 AND HIGHER THAT NEED THAT FUEL PUMP BUT CHRYSLER SEEMS TO KEEP SENDING ME PARTS AND TAKING MY MONEY! PLEASE HELP

AIR BAGS CAME OUT WITH METAL FRAGMENTS SHOOTING OUT AND I AND MY SIGNIFICANT OTHER WAS INJURED THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION IT WAS BLACK ICE AND I SLIDE THOSE AIRBAGS COULD HAVE PUT MY EYES OUT. *TR

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNED A 2008 CHRYSLER 300. T-BONED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONTAL AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY TRANSPORTED BY AMBULANCE THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, SUDDENLY A VEHICLE CAME OUT OF A PARKING LOT, THE CONTACT T-BONE THE VEHICLE ON THE DRIVER SIDE. THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WAS DAMAGED. THE CONTACT WAS TAKEN TO THE HOSPITAL BY AMBULANCE. THE DIAGNOSIS WAS BACK SPASMS, SHOULDER PAIN AND WHIPLASH. THE CONTACT WAS TREATED AND RELEASED. THE POLICE WAS PRESENT AN A POLICE REPORT WAS ISSUED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN IMPOUND LOT. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSTIC. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND A REPORT WAS FILED. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED RECEIVING RECALL NOTIFICATIONS FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 15V373000 (AIR BAGS) AND 15V352000 (AIR BAGS ), PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REPAIRS. APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 150,000. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT

I BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE, THINKING IT WAS GREAT. I TRIED DRIVING IT HOME, AND NEVER MADE IT. I LOST ALL POWER ON THE HIGHWAY IN FRONT OF THE SEMI. IN RETURN I DID NOT HAVE BRAKES, I DIDN'T HAVE STEERING, ALL LIGHTS TURNED OFF, AND TO TOP IT OFF IT WOULDN'T START AGAIN. I'VE REPLACED THE PCM, STARTER, ALTERNATOR, THE POWER DISTRIBUTION, ALL THE FUSES/RELAYS, AND HERE I AM STILL SPENDING HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS TO TRY TO GET MY VEHICLE TO WORK AGAIN, AND IT'S NOT SEEMING POSSIBLE. I HAVE 2 KIDS AND NOW ONCE I GET IT STARTED I MUST WORRY IF IT'LL HAPPEN AGAIN. THE CAR ONLY HAS 120,000 MILES ON IT. IT'S BEEN VERY WELL KEPT. AND NOW I'VE BOUGHT ALL THESE PARTS AND PAID ALL THIS MONEY TO HAVE IT REPAIRED. AND NOW I'M OUT OF MY OTHER VEHICLE, AND WITH THE CORONA VIRUS I AM OUT OF WORK, AND HAVE NO WAY TO KEEP SPENDING MONEY TO FIX IT OR FIND OUT THE PROBLEM. THE ELECTRIC LIGHT WAS ON I REPLACED THROTTLE AND SENSOR AS WELL. THAT DIDN'T FIX IT NEITHER.

CAR WILL TURN OFF WHEN DRIVING OUT OF NOWHERE AND I HAVE TO RESTART THE CAR ALL OVER AGAIN. IT HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES ONE TIME AS I WAS TURNING INTO A STREET ANOTHER TIME AS I WAS SWITCHING LANES. THIS LAST TIME I WAS AT A STOP LIGHT AND THE CAR DID IT AGAIN.