2010 Chrysler 300

I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 and when I fill my tank up I take the handle out when it clicks I don’t keep filling because I know not to. My car will smell like someone poured gas into my backseat and if I roll the driver side window down for air it seems to get stronger for a little over 3 months now until it gets a quarter in a half below full. Now I don’t fill my car up all the way due to that and no one has figured it out yet. I have replaced lines and caps and now the fuel pump to find out none of it was the problem. I was followed home tonight to be told my car was pouring out gas from under the fuel pump area while I was driving. So I took a video of it pouring out under the driver back seat area and then I pulled off the back seat to find gas all on top of my brand new fuel pump. First I figured maybe the seal wasn’t on right but everything was put on correctly but yet I have no clue why there is gas everywhere especially seeing the pump is in correct. I can’t drive my car nor take my grandson anywhere with my car smelling like gas. Not understanding why my old and new fuel pump is backing up and I wouldn’t run my car on empty nor overfill. I have spent a bit of money into my car replacing things to continue to have the same problem. Major issue scared to ride in my car not knowing if it is going to catch on fire and that is my main transportation. By the way I changed my fuel pump because my car wouldn’t start yesterday and I didn’t hear the fuel pump turning on so tapped it a few times and it clicked on and it was whining so loud I parked it a few blocks away at a family members house scared to be stuck on the side of the road going home yesterday. Seatbelt lock box quit working as well I literally have to push it in 50 times to get it to click very irritating especially if you are in a hurry but that is way minor compared to my gas issue for the last few months Wish I could share video to show gas pouring out can’t see in pictures

The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300C. While driving at an undisclosed speed and approaching a roundabout, the brake pedal was depressed; however, the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was restarted and driven to the residence. The owner performed a diagnostic test but found a recorded history of the vehicle shutting down in the computer. The vehicle was not repaired, and the failure persisted. The contact referenced NHTSA Campaign Number: 10V200000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM); however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The vehicle was taken to a dealer. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 99,000.

The vehicle was sold with an outdated battery and later experienced repeated breakdowns. During the first repair visit, the dealership replaced the battery and alternator but failed to identify the root cause of the problem. The vehicle was returned, but the next day it broke down again. Upon inspection, it was discovered that the wiring harness was severely burnt and melted, creating a significant safety hazard that could cause stalling, fire, or total electronic failure. The dealership later diagnosed a PCM failure, which was not detected during the first repair visit. The wiring damage and PCM issue were not disclosed to the vehicle owner by the dealership, and there was no explanation provided for the cause. The problem has been confirmed by the dealership during the second visit, and photographs of the wiring damage are available. The electrical system and engine control were compromised, placing the driver and others at risk of sudden vehicle failure while driving.

The contact owned a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact stated that while her partner was driving at 30 MPH, he crashed into a vehicle due to his vision being obstructed by the sun. The air bags did not deploy upon impact. The contact's partner was taken to the hospital by ambulance, where he was treated for whiplash, a cervical strain on his hips, and pain in his right side of his ribs. The other driver was also taken to the hospital as a precautionary measure, but did not sustain any injuries. A police report was filed. Due to the failure, the vehicle was towed to an independent tow yard. The manufacturer had yet to be notified of the failure. The vehicle was deemed a total loss. The failure mileage was 188,760.

See attached document for complaint.

The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300C. The contact stated that while opening the rear passenger’s and driver's side doors, the door handles detached. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 168,000.

TIPM prevented safe operation of vehicle. Stopped for no reason. Horn blowing repeatedly uncontrollable. Transmission locked.

The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact stated while attempting to turn off the vehicle, the vehicle remained powered on without the key in the ignition. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer where it was diagnosed with needing the WIN module replaced however, the vehicle was not repaired. Upon investigation, the contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 10V200000 (Electrical System) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that the VIN was not under recall. The failure mileage was 124,725.

Odometer been tampered with and also my car caught on fire the other day

Antilock Brake System (ABS) module malfunctioned. Brakes function is being compromised and warning lamps were activated. Vehicle/Component was inspected by the dealership and the ABS module was replaced at owner's cost. There is similar ABS module recalls (refer to FCA Safety Recall R61/NHTSA 15V-675).

On May 9th I went to pick up my check and I freaking ran over run over a big rock in the street and it it put like a little hole in my oil pan well this is my first car I've had already my second car I haven't had it for that long so what I did was I'm going to try to get home as the oil slowly leaking out but I was going to try to get home and I drive for like for like 3 minutes at like 20 at like 25 miles per hour 30 miles per hour and like probably like three or four minutes from that incident and I stopped before that too to get the money and then I tried to raise home whatever I'm driving and in the key pops out the addition but it always pops out the ignition crazy and s*** but then the car just like like the lights just act like they they just died on me while I was driving he pops out the lights or whatever and then I stayed that day with my car that happened at 5:00 I was trying to patch up the oil coming out and it turned out to be 2:00 when I noticed it was 2:00 and the oil still coming out all this extra s*** I was probably 1:00 and I bought a oil I bought a one thing oil just to keep keep it in there and stuff cuz I thought I lightweight patched up and I end up getting it towed to my house and I'm the person I'm going to make sure it gets fixed before I drive this stuff is 138,000 Miles only had it for like 2 months now would be like three or four months but yeah and put the oil pan on and somebody stole my radio so I don't know they f***** up some stuff in there but I go to turn on like finally turning the car and stuff and then it is giving me a mobilizer warning it it dies out the battery when I was trying to do it excessively but it's like this stuff thing going on the key won't f****** stand in ignition you like pops out every time I turn it all the way over no matter what key it is only got two of the fob and the transponder the door maybe they've been broken into or something so it looks all sketchy can't put a key into the door and p0 513..

2 ISSUES: 1)WHILE DRIVING, VEHICLE FREQUENTLY SHOWS NO AIR PRESSURE IN FRONT DRIVER SIDE TIRE SENSOR, HAPPENS FREQUENTLY 2) WHILE STARTING, VEHICLE WILL START AND RUN FOR APPROX 2-3 SECONDS THEN ENGINE WILL SHUT OFF, ISSUE 2 TYPICALLY DOES NOT REPEAT AFTER TURNING OFF VEHICLE THEN RESTARTING. THIS ISSUE OCCURRED MORE OFTEN WHEN STARTING VEHICLE AFTER BEING BRIEFLY TURNED OFF

LOW OIL PRESSURES LITE COMES ON BLINKS GOES OUT WHEN YOU PRESS DOWN ON THE PEDDLE TO ACCELERATE CAR REPLACED OIL SENDING UNIT STILL DOES IT HAS TO BE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM CAR 10 YEARS OLD

PROBLEMS WITH THE W I N MODULE. OR WCM. PUSH START PASSIVE ENTRY NON-FUNCTIONAL INCLUDING REMOTE START NON-FUNCTIONAL. W I N MODULE MALFUNCTION. UNRECOGNIZED KEY TRANSMISSION FAILURE. SAFETY ISSUE.

ENGINE STALLED. RESTARTED. CLEANED ELECTRIC CONTROL THROTTLE. RAN 2 DAYS WITH NO PROBLEM EXCEPT FOR ROUGH IDLING (THIS WAS HAPPENING BEFORE FIRST SHUT DOWN). ENGINE STALL, RESTARTED. DROVE HOME. TODAY ENGINE STALLED AGAIN. TWO OF INCIDENTS OCCURRED WHILE STATIONARY AND ONCE IN MOTION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 CHRYSLER 300. WHILE DRIVING ON AN UNFAMILIAR ROAD AT 20-25 MPH, THE CONTACT WENT INTO AN EMBANKMENT AND CRASHED INTO A TREE. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED INJURIES TO THE NECK, KNEE, AND BACK. MEDICAL ATTENTION WAS PROVIDED. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER AND DEALER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 182,000. *TR *TR

SPECIFIC PROBLEM: HEATH VENTILATION SYSTEM. THE SPECIFIC PROBLEM WITH ALL OF THE CHRYSLER 300 2010 MODELS ARE THE HEATING (OR) INTERIOR HEATING SYSTEM. STRAIGHT TO THE POINT. WHEN THE MOTOR IS RUNNING, WHETHER YOUR ARE TRAVELING OR PARKED IDLE (MOTOR RUNNING) FOR ABOUT AN HOUR OR TWO, THE VEHICLE WOULD START GETTING WARM AND YOU WOULD FEEL THE HEAT COMING FROM THE ARM REST AND UNDER THE DASH BOARD EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE THE HEAT TURNED OFF, AND ESPECIALLY IN THE SUMMER MONTHS. HERE IS THE CATCH. SAY YOU ARE TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY OR LOCAL STREETS FOR TWO (2) HOURS, YOU WOULD FEEL THE ARM REST VERY WARM AND YOUR FEET ARE WARMER THAN USUAL. IF YOU LIFT THE ARM REST UP AND STICK YOUR HAND INSIDE THE POCKET YOU WOULD FEEL THE HEAT COMING OUT OF THERE. YOU ALSO FEEL THE HEAT COMING FROM UNDER THE DASH BOARD BY THE BRAKE AND GAS PEDALS. WHEN TRAVELING AND BREATHING-IN THE HEAT YOU WOULD FEEL LIKE YOU ARE TIRED AND WANT TO SLEEP, WHEN IN FACT YOU DON'T. THIS IS HAPPENING IN ALL OF THE ABOVE MENTIONED MODEL, 2010 OF CHRYSLER. I FIRST NOTICED IT IN 2011 WHEN I GOT THE FIRST VEHICLE, AND THEN IN 2016 WHEN I GOT A SECOND (2ND) ONE (CHRYS. 300 2010) (USED). WHEN AIR TRAVELING I USUALLY RENT THE SAME TYPE OF VEHICLE FROM RENTAL CAR COMPANIES AND THE SAME THIN IS HAPPENING WITH THE HEAT COMING OUT OF THE ARM REST AND THE FROM THE DASH BOARD (FLOOR). I MEANT TO WRITE ABOUT THIS MATTER FOR A WHILE, BUT ONLY NOW I AM GETTING TO IT. IN CLOSING, HERE IS WHAT YOUR AGENCY SHOULD DO IN CONDUCTING YOUR OWN SURVEY. HAVE YOUR DRIVERS OR ANY EMPLOYEES THAT HAS THE ABOVE MAKE, MODEL AND YEAR VEHICLE, TRAVEL IN IT FOR TWO (2) HOURS, THEN HAVE THEM FEEL THE ARM REST, THEY WOULD SEE HOW WARM IT IS. HAVE THEM LIFT UP THE ARM REST AND PLACE THEIR HAND INSIDE, ASK THEM IF IT IS HOT OR WARM. ASK THEM HOW WARM IS THEIR FEET THERE AT THE BRAKE AND GAS PEDALS. YOU WOULD AGREE THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG.

FOR THE PAST TWO MONTHS WHILE ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, MY RPM WILL JUMP TO OVER 3 WHILE BARELY PRESSING ON THE GAS. THIS ISSUE TENDS TO HAPPEN MORE WHEN I SLOW DOWN (BUT NOT COMPLETELY STOP, LIKE AT A CHANGING LIGHT) AND ATTEMPT TO SPEED BACK UP. MY CAR DOESN'T ACCELERATE VERY FAST BUT THE RPM WILL BE VERY HIGH. ALSO, WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY, GOING A CONSTANT SPEED MY RPM WILL JUMP UP AND DOWN. I'VE ATTEMPTED TO USE MY AUTOSTICK TO GET THE RPM TO DROP BACK DOWN AND IT ONLY HELPS OCCASIONALLY. I'VE HAD SPARK PLUGS REPLACED, A NEW BATTERY, A TRANSMISSION FLUSH, WIRES REPLACED FOR THE THROTTLE BODY (THEY WERE BROKEN/BURNT), MY CAR SAID IT HAD THE WRONG OIL IN IT, SO I GOT ANOTHER OIL CHANGE, I'VE HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLASHED TWICE. I'VE HAD 5 DIFFERENT PEOPLE/SHOPS LOOK AT MY CAR (INCLUDING THE DEALERSHIP) AND NONE OF THEM CAN FIGURE OUT WHAT'S CAUSING IT, ALL REPAIRS HAVE TOTALED OVER THE LAST TWO MONTHS SINCE HAVING THIS ISSUE, ROUGHLY $1,500. THE ISSUE IS STILL HAPPENING AND THIS IS MY SECOND CHRYSLER 300C.

OUT OF NOWHERE THE HAZARD LIGHT COMES ON AND STAYS ON FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME

THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) HAS FAILED ON MY VEHICLE. AT FIRST IT STARTED AS A DEAD BATTERY WHICH WAS REPLACED, THEN A PARASITIC DRAW WHICH COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED RIGHT AWAY, THEN CAUSED MY STARTED NOT TO HAVE POWER. THE CAR WOULD TURN ITSELF ON WHILE IT WAS TURNED OFF AND MAKE THE LIGHTS BUG OUT AND HORN SOUND. THEN IT WOULD STOP AND START AGAIN MULTIPLE TIMES DRAINING THE BATTERY. I WAS DRIVING BETWEEN STATES AND I STOPPED FOR GAS WHEN MY CAR NO LONGER STARTED AND WAS STRANDED THERE FOR HOURS BEFORE IT WOULD START AGAIN. ITS STATIONARY WHEN THE CAR WOULD TURN ITSELF ON AND OFF.